Author Archives: ATELIERS DEMONACO

Ateliers deMonaco unveils its latest creation: the Admiral Chronographe Flyback Stradivari

Produced in partnership with the architect and designer Luca Stradivari, a direct descendant of legendary luthier Antonio Stradivari – creator of the famous Stradivarius violin – the new Admiral Chronographe Flyback Stradivari watch is a wonderfully refined and beautifully orchestrated device. Available in four limited editions (steel, 18 carats rose gold, white gold and yellow gold), fans of fine watchmaking are sure to appreciate the difference this striking creation with its geometric dial and ingenious chronograph flyback function will make to daily life.

The meeting of two universes

Italian design and watchmaking appear to be a natural fit. Both are arts practised at the highest level and instrumentalised by exceptional objects, cleverly constructed from choice materials. They require knowledge of materials, finesse in execution, harmony of lines and carefully preserved know-how, to which only the designers and artisans hold the secret.

It was in Monaco, where the watch brand began, that these two worlds were brought together. The talented architect and designer Luca Stradivari teamed up with Ateliers deMonaco to create something of great quality with real personality. Eager to make the most authentic and – on occasion – the wildest dreams come true, Luca Stradivari has infused the new Admiral Chronographe Flyback Stradivari watch with his exhilarating creative energy. His keen eye for curves, lines and perspective has influenced the silhouette of this timepiece, its relief and dynamism as daring as its creator.

Ancestral inspiration

More than an architect and designer, Luca Stradivari, has also inherited a particular sensibility from his ancestors that has undoubtedly intensified his pursuit of perfection. He can in fact claim to be a direct descendant of Antonio Stradivari, the renowned luthier who designed the finest violin of all time, the famous Stradivarius.

Luthiers and watchmakers share the same passion for excellence. Between the dancing cogs and the accuracy of the keys, their expertise comes down to long hours of demanding and meticulous work. Attention to detail and precision of movement set the tone for these creations being handcrafted in workshops by artisans dedicated to designing the perfect instrument.

This is demonstrated by the fact that 300 years on, no one has definitively solved the mystery of the legendary Stradivarius and its uniquely special sound. In spite of the many theories surrounding the specific make-up of the varnish used, the internal wood structure, its chemical treatment – or even micro-glaciation – for improving its resonance, none of it has been established for sure to this day.

Growing up in a world where he came into contact with very finely crafted objects produced to the highest standards from an early age, Luca Stradivari has developed his vision of the perfect object made from the finest materials.

High-quality finishes

What makes a great instrument for measuring time? Its contours, personality, materials and finishes. The new Admiral Chronographe Flyback Stradivari timepiece has it all.

Housed in a 42 mm case enhanced by a raised middle, the well-defined black geometric dial with intertwining lines capable of transporting its admirers to other horizons reveals the dreamlike spirit of Luca Stradivari. Coated and curved, bold polished triangular hour markers in opposite directions frame this fantasy and give the piece its dynamism. Elegant dauphine hands indicating the hours, minutes and seconds of the chronograph glide over the signature of the architect and designer, given pride of place at 6 o’clock. At 9 o’clock, you’ll find the small seconds counter and on the opposite side, the chronograph’s minutes counter.

In keeping with its passion for Fine Watchmaking, Ateliers deMonaco has given its latest creation an open case back allowing the dMc-760 calibre to be admired. Decorated by hand, there is intricate circular satin-finishing, perlage, Côtes de Genève, chamfering and traits tirés adorning the bridges. Completing the piece is the signature 22 carat gold oscillating weight, a feature of all the brand’s automatic watches, carefully revolving around the movement. Beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph, it has a power reserve of 38 hours.

There are four limited edition models available: one steel model limited to 88 pieces and 36 in 18 carat gold, including: 12 white gold, 12 yellow gold and 12 rose gold.

Finally, to ensure the various elements can be appreciated in exceptional detail, the two sapphire crystals on the case (bezel and case back) benefit from an anti-reflective treatment on both sides.

A patented mechanism

The flyback function first appeared in 1936, enabling pilots and elite athletes to time themselves over long and short distances. A straightforward concept, it allows the chronograph to be stopped, reset and restarted with a single press of the push-piece, rather than three successive presses.

True to its goal of making complications both easier to use and more efficient, the patented Admiral Chronographe Flyback by Ateliers deMonaco is no exception. This feature measures a succession of elapsed times, while eliminating many repetitive and unnecessary operations. The flyback module has only 96 parts, making it one of the most efficient flyback modules in the world, as well as one of the most affordable, thanks to its ingenious construction.

Pim Koeslag interview by Angus Davies from escapementmagazine.com

Pim Koeslag, Ateliers deMonaco

Angus Davies chats to Pim Koeslag, CEO of Ateliers deMonaco about his professional background and the high-end brand he manages, including the company’s patented systems and the production of bespoke watches.

Pim Koeslag, Ateliers deMonaco

In 2008, Pim Koeslag, Robert van Pappelendam and Peter Stas established Ateliers deMonaco. Initially, the brand operated from a workshop in the sun-kissed principality of Monaco.

Peter Stas is probably best known for establishing the luxury marque, Frederique Constant, with his wife and co-founder Aletta Stas. While Frederique Constant is synonymous with making affordable luxury watches, Ateliers deMonaco operates within the rarefied heights of haute horlogerie where price is of less importance. The brand’s watches encompass technical virtuosity, flawless finishing and, in some cases, artisanal crafts. Perhaps, most noticeably, the Maison has gained a reputation for crafting unique pieces and bespoke commissions.

Ultimately, Ateliers deMonaco relocated to Geneva where it now operates under the same roof as its sister brands, Alpina and Frederique Constant. In May 2016, Citizen Watch Company Ltd announced it had signed an agreement to acquire Frederique Constant Holding SA, including all three of its watchmaking brands.

Pim Koeslag, Ateliers deMonaco

Despite the change of ownership, Pim Koeslag remains CEO of Ateliers deMonaco as well as being the Technical Director of Alpina and Frederique Constant.

Recently, I met Pim Koeslag, a son of The Netherlands, and seized the opportunity to learn more about him and the high-end company he deftly manages.

Interview with Pim Koeslag, Ateliers deMonaco

What makes Ateliers deMonaco special?

We are a very innovative brand, able to explore many new, groundbreaking ideas. Of course, this is not just because of me, but because we have a talented research and development team and some fabulous watchmakers, experienced with working on high-end timepieces. We have patented several unique devices and systems not found elsewhere.

Can you provide a brief overview of your background to date?

Initially, I attended a goldsmith school in Amsterdam. At the time, I wanted to be a jeweller or goldsmith. In the first year of school I studied watchmaking, working with gold and silver and studying hand engraving. However, after just one week of attending college, I knew I wanted to be a watchmaker rather than a goldsmith.

Pim Koeslag, Ateliers deMonaco

I finished watchmaking school and then did an internship at Grönefeld, where I learnt a lot. Thereafter, I was named best watchmaker at the watchmaking school and the school arranged for me to go Patek Philippe for a couple of weeks of intensive training.

However, I first met Peter Stas while I was still at the watchmaking school when a group of the students, myself included, travelled to Geneva in order to visit Patek Philippe, Rolex and Vacheron Constantin. While in Geneva we were also keen to visit Frederique Constant because it was owned and operated by a Dutch couple, Aletta and Peter.

During our visit, Peter asked if anyone would be willing to help him with the development of a movement. He had the idea of making a manufacture movement but, at the time, he lacked the know-how and resources. I step forward and offered to help.

Pim Koeslag, Ateliers deMonaco

The week after, I returned to Geneva and started work on the project. Peter also brought on board one student from the watchmaking school in Geneva. That is how I began working for Peter. We unveiled our first movement, the hand-wound Calibre FC910, at Baselworld in 2004. It proved a huge success. Today, Frederique Constant has made 29 different calibres.

I believe you were instrumental in the creation of your company’s most complicated watch to date, the Tourbillon Répétition Minute.

What made you undertake such a complex task?

Despite creating numerous calibres for Frederique Constant, I had always dreamt of making a minute repeater. I suspect this desire came from having spent time at Grönefeld and Patek Philippe. Eventually, having discussed my idea with Peter Stas several times, he agreed to my developing our own minute repeater.

Once created, the minute repeater movement was presented to Peter who agreed that it looked beautiful and sounded wonderful. However, at the time he was not sure how it could be utilised. It certainly did not fit with the Frederique Constant collection, as it was too high-end.

Peter came back to me a couple of weeks later and suggested we set up another brand and he asked me if I would like to participate in this new company. Thereafter, Ateliers deMonaco was born.

Today, the brand has produced six different in-house movements and typically makes 150 pieces per annum. We are now able to produce beautiful watches, including unique pieces. 

How long did it take to develop the Tourbillon Répétition Minute?

It took 4.5 years to develop the watch.

I know when Ateliers deMonaco unveiled its perpetual calendar it was incredibly robust and also very user-friendly. Did you adopt a similar philosophy with the Tourbillon Répétition Minute?

Yes. There are various safeguards in place to reduce the risk of any potential damage.

I think this can be attributed to our experience with Frederique Constant where we make products for people to enjoy. We always ensure everything works reliably. This philosophy also applies to Ateliers deMonaco products.

On your website you describe the ‘eXtreme Precision 1 minute tourbillon’ as ‘one of the most accurate tourbillon movements in the world today’. Can you quantify this level of precision?

We have a patented system for ensuring the tourbillon cage is optimally balanced. The system includes fixing weights to the tourbillon cage. These weights can be adjusted in order to alter the moment of inertia.

The cage comprises of approximately 80 components and weighs 0.6 gramme. As the escapement is positioned on one side, the cage will prove heavier on that side. As the cage rotates, the heavier part of the cage will draw more power, impacting on the amplitude and ultimately the precision of the movement.

Our system, using various weights, ensures the weight is distributed evenly throughout the cage, delivering a balanced state and ensuring energy is consumed uniformly.

When the watch leaves our Manufacture, the daily variation in rate is between 0 and +2 seconds.

Some of the Ateliers deMonaco models are embellished with examples of métiers d’art such as grand feu enamelling and hand-engraved dials. Do you engage local artisans to undertake this work?

Yes, we engage specialists who are experts in a particular artisanal craft. It does not make sense to perform these tasks in-house because we have an array of individuals and specialist firms nearby which possess these types of skills. We focus upon what we know and let the artisans specialise on what they know. These artisanal skills have existed in this region for a long time and we are happy to play our part in perpetuating these crafts.

I note you offer a bespoke service.

Yes, this is a big part of our business and, if I am honest, it is the part I like the most (laughs). 

How far does your bespoke service go?

We have done bespoke movements, but this is unusual. Most bespoke commissions focus upon individual dial designs with some encompassing stones, enamelling, engraving etc.

Earlier this year, I had the good fortune to try on your lovely watch, the Poinçon de Genève which, as its name implies, is endowed with the Hallmark of Geneva.

How many additional hours are spent in fulfilling the requirements of the Poinçon de Genève?

I have stopped counting! It is one of the most demanding standards I have ever encountered.

Is that in terms of the quality of the components, the finishing or the chronometry?

Everything. Basically, if you mess up one of these areas, you will probably need to start from the beginning again. It starts from the research and development process and continues all the way through the production phase, decoration, assembly, testing and final inspection. The requirements of the Poinçon de Genève are incredibly tough.

Innovation seems to be at the heart of your company’s DNA. I know you have four patents relating to your movements. I would like to explore one of these patents in close detail:

The ‘Freebeat’ regulation system. How does this differ from the ubiquitous index adjusted balance or a variable-inertia balance? What are the benefits this approach confers?

 

The hairspring is fixed using a ratchet system. This allows the effective length of the hairspring to be adjusted while being held securely in position, hence there is no requirement for curb pins which could cause interference.

In addition, there is no conventional stud and adjusting the rate proves easier than with a variable-inertia balance. The balance wheel is also ‘clean’ which mitigates turbulence and, as a result, aids precision. Lastly, the system delivers impressive levels of isochronism, again aiding precision. 

What are your aspirations for Ateliers deMonaco both in terms of product development and the company as a whole?

To continue being innovative, special and exclusive.

Closing remarks

Pim Koeslag clearly has an inquisitive nature. He has an unwavering desire to challenge accepted norms and deliver horological advancement. However, despite his prowess for innovation, he remains very modest, often making reference to the contribution made by members of his team.

The brand has four patented innovations relating to its movements. During our meeting we explored two of them, the ‘eXtreme Precision 1 minute tourbillon’ and the ‘Freebeat’ regulation system. Both systems are exemplars of ‘blue-sky thinking’ and confer superior precision for the betterment of horophiles. Pim and his colleagues possess a willingness to look beyond the horological landscape in their midst and explore uncharted territory.

Beyond its technical creativity, the people behind Ateliers deMonaco possess well-honed skills, creating objects endowed with a prepossessing beauty. The visual allure of the brand’s products extends to exquisite dials, some bespoke, enriched with traditional artisanal crafts. Moreover, the beauty of an Ateliers deMonaco timepiece is not restricted to its face but extends to its internal organs. Indeed, the peerless movement finishing bestows much eye-appeal and stands testament to the time-served skills found at the Maison’s facility in Geneva.

Pim Koeslag, Ateliers deMonaco

During my time with Pim Koeslag he never boasted or came across as unduly flamboyant, and yet his work stands testament to his creativity and technical expertise. Likewise, an Ateliers deMonaco timepiece is not an example of conspicuous consumption, rather an understated paragon of fine watchmaking, ideally suiting discerning individuals. It seems there is a high quotient of Pim within the DNA of this luxury marque.

Ateliers deMonaco introduces two new timepieces to the Admiral Chronographe Flyback Armure collection

Inspired by the armour of the Chevalier en Armure represented in the seal of Monaco, the new Admiral Chronographe Flyback Armure watches are truly exclusive and innovative pieces for connoisseurs and horology lovers.

Back in 2017, Ateliers deMonaco launched the first Admiral Chronographe Flyback Armure timepieces featuring an Armure-treated stainless steel case combined with a multi-layered anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal glass. One year later, the Maison partnered with Prato Automobiles choosing this specific Armure watch case to create two Admiral Chronographe Flyback models to be part of the Prato line. Indeed, this case was the perfect ambassador for the brands’ common values; audacity, quest for performance and a constant search for innovation.

The 2019 models are available in two different finishings. The first one comes with a beautiful blue dial adorned with polished silver-coloured Roman numerals and dauphine shaped hands, offering an elegant and harmonious contrast. The second one has a black and white aesthetic; the watch features a silver coloured dial & hands whereas the Roman numerals are black PVD coated.

Both models are embellished with a beautiful guilloché decoration at the centre of the dial as well as Ateliers deMonaco’s signature lozenge-shaped hour-marks.

To power the Admiral Chronographe Flyback timepieces, the patented self-winding dMc-760 calibre is used. The movement features an innovative “direct return-to-zero” mechanism that helps the flyback function to be even more accurate. This piece of technology is encased in an ergonomic 42mm case diameter, strengthened by Ateliers deMonaco’s unique Armure treatment. The case is exposed to a chemical process including carbon diffusion at low temperature which hardens the steel’s surface. When using this method, the hardness is increased from 220 Vickers to 1200 Vickers, making the metal about five times more scratch-resistant.

True to its passion for tradition and Haute Horlogerie know-how, the Admiral Chronographe Flyback Armure timepieces have an open case back through which one can admire the perfectly decorated calibre. All bridges are hand decorated with circular satin-finishing, circular graining, Côtes de Genève, chamfered and drawn line decorations. And finally – a prestigious signature for all Ateliers deMonaco automatic watches – a 22K gold rotor bringing a luxurious finishing touch to the whole.

Ateliers deMonaco offers a unique timepiece to support  the 2019 Only Watch auction

Born as an Haute Horlogerie brand, Ateliers deMonaco is all about design, performance, technology, innovation and craftsmanship.

Founded in 2008, the Maison counts 6 in-house movements combining tradition and high-end watchmaking know-how with technical innovation.

Pim Koeslag, co-founder, master watchmaker and CEO of the brand has made his dream come true when he first created his own tourbillon minute repeater movement. Today, he proudly presents another spectacular masterpiece: the Tourbillon – Oculus 1297 Only Watch.

Equipped with the manufacture dMc-980 calibre, the watch is designed, produced, and assembled in Ateliers deMonaco’s workshops. Its patented tourbillon movement called Tourbillon XP1 (eXtreme Precision 1 minute) is one of the most precise in the world with a tolerance between 0 to 2 seconds per 24 hours.

The hand-decorated calibre boasts chamfering, circular graining and satin-finishing decorations, a 22k gold rotor representing the Principality of Monaco’s crown and includes a silicium escape wheel and lever.

A major innovation for this timepiece is its 44mm watch case made from a technique used in the automotive industry called forged carbon. For this timepiece, Ateliers deMonaco developed a new method including 18k gold in the process: carbon fibre, gold and resin are mixed together and placed in a mould. The mixture is then heated and pressed to form a block. After the moulding process, the case is meticulously refined to achieve the perfect shape. Thanks to this exclusive method, the case is thus unique.

The timepiece features a multi-layered decentred dial treated with dark grey PVD and is decorated with a lozenge pattern in relief. Roman numerals and dauphine hands finally come to complete the already beautifully detailed dial.

Hours and minutes can be read on the dial while the small seconds can be read on the Tourbillon opening at 6 o’clock.

A smoke-grey alligator leather strap with nubuck finishing brings additional character to this unique watch.

Ateliers deMonaco is proud to donate this one-of-a-kind timepiece to the Only Watch biennial auction, Only Watch supporting the treatment of muscular dystrophy diseases and pushing the boundaries of science.

Poinçon de Genève Dressed by The Monaco Prince’s Palace Logo

Since 2015, Ateliers deMonaco is among the happy few very meticulous watchmaking houses to have earned the Geneva seal.

To receive this recognition, each watch component has to be made with the utmost care and be finely decorated. Moreover, each movement must be assembled, adjusted and encased in the brand’s manufacture in Geneva. This is a controlled label, guaranteed by the state of Geneva and a beacon of exceptional quality ensuring that the purchased product is both flawless and authentic.

This year, two new prestigious models join this prestigious collection and further express the brand’s attachment to watchmaking tradition – making timepieces that are not only a mere measurement instrument, but a true work of art.

Limited to 18 pieces each, the watches are offered in an 18K rose or white gold case. The Monaco prince’s palace logo has been placed at 6 o’clock to pay homage to the brand’s heritage and hand-applied roman indexes have been added to enhance its elegance. The watches are designed to achieve a luxurious aesthetic appeal on both sides. Thanks to its see-through case-back, the wearer can admire the hand decorations on the movement such as chamfered, drawn flanks, drafted marks and mirror polish on the steel parts. For the bridges: chamfered, drawn flanks, circular graining and Côte de Genève decorations. This limited-edition collection is presented with a black and a brown hand-stitched alligator leather strap with either an 18K white or rose gold tongue buckle.

In addition to the Poinçon de Genève certification, these new models include the patented Ateliers deMonaco “Freebeat” adjustment system. In a conventional regulation system, pins on both side of the hairspring are used to regulate how much it can wind and unwind, regulating the speed of the balance wheel. By allowing the hairspring to bounce against these pins, in combination with gravity forces, the unfortunate side effect of these collisions is that it interferes with the precision of the movement itself. The “Freebeat” regulation system controls the hairspring’s length with an adjustable crémaillère (straight bar with teeth on one edge, allowing it to be fixed at different lengths) obsoleting the need for pins and avoiding any interference.

To bring power to these timepieces, the watchmakers of Ateliers deMonaco have equipped them with the in-house and patented manual dMc-708 calibre, featuring a 38-hour power reserve and ruling the central hour, minute and second hands. The ultra-thin characteristics of this calibre enabled the brand to encase it within a delicate 9.2mm high case.

Ateliers deMonaco endows its Sirène timepiece with a new Champagne colour

 

Ateliers deMonaco, watchmaking manufacture, first launched its La Sirène timepiece in 2009. 9 years later, the brand offers its leading lady a beautiful new Champagne look for the festive season. This delicate piece offers a perfect balance between watchmaking tradition and dazzling beauty. Luxuriously composed of gold and diamonds, this piece of jewellery will bring charm and elegance to any feminine wrist.

Developed and made in Ateliers deMonaco’s manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates, the dMc-700 automatic movement is assembled by the Maison’s passionate watchmakers. The masterpiece of this movement is its hand-engraved, 22-carat gold rotor which represents the Principality of Monaco’s coat of arms. Ateliers deMonaco is the only brand allowed to use this shield.

This traditional movement is encased by a 18-carat rose gold case magnified by 617 champagne-coloured diamonds, set to fit the shape of the case perfectly. In perfect harmony with the case, a delicate flower called King Protea is represented on the dial. Three rows of 24 lozenge-shaped settings welcome 120 champagne diamonds to create the corolla. The heart of the flower is made of white mother-of-pearl, and is surrounded by a rose gold ring. Finally, to echo the colour of the white mother-of-pearl and the base of the rhodium-plated rose gold dial, a white alligator strap enhances the whole.

This new timepiece, La Sirène Champagne, is the fourth reinterpretation of the original La Sirène Topaze piece created in honour of HSH Princess Charlene of Monaco. This flagship model of the women’s Ateliers de Monaco collection is limited to 8 pieces only. An ideal and coveted gift for the holidays.

A new Prato model joins the Admiral Chronographe Flyback collection in partnership with Prato Automobiles

This year, Ateliers deMonaco has introduced a new model to its prestigious Admiral Chronographe Flyback collection; the Prato. The pieces – launched in March of this year – were presented as the fruit of the brand’s new partnership with Prato Automobiles. Further completing the collection, is a new timepiece in rose gold. A standout piece that asserts the brand’s luxurious standards and passion for mechanics.

An ideal partnership

If two worlds were made to collide, watchmaking and automobiles were the ideal candidates.

The two industries definitely echo each other on many levels – precision, a care for detail and a smart design are just a few mere examples. It is therefore no surprise that Ateliers deMonaco and Prato Automobiles came together in an effort to bring their ideals into a series of fine timepieces.

A rose gold marvel of mechanics and aesthetics

An addition to the chronographs released earlier this year, Ateliers deMonaco’s rose gold newcomer needn’t envy its predecessors.

Its shiny 18K rose gold polished case houses the brand’s automatic hand-decorated dMc-760 caliber – the heart of the patented Flyback complication which offers its wearer, a single gesture to go from one measurement of time to another. Protecting this complex mechanical core, a delicate carbon fiber and 18K rose gold dial. Thanks to a specific technique often used in the automotive industry, each dial is meticulously finished and, more importantly, unique.

A face further enhanced by black PVD treated applied roman numerals and the Prato logo.

Finally, the counters and Dauphine hands complete the timepieceoffering a powerful and playful contrast with the rich, textured dial.

Savoir-faire

Because beauty should come from within, Ateliers deMonaco takes pride and patience in preparing its components and assembling its movements. The dMc-760 makes no exception to the rule.

The in-house caliber is composed of 226 components split in two essential parts. The first is the base movement, intended to bring to life the hours, minutes and seconds of the watch. The second is the module carrying the flyback chronograph mechanism, which relies on 96 components.

The movement is assembled by hand by the brand’s skilful watchmakers, a long and delicate process which requires both experience and finesse.

VIP dinner in Bangkok in partnership with IAMWATCH

Last July 25th has occurred a VIP dinner organised by Ateliers deMonaco in partnership with IAMWATCH, the Thai most famous watch magazine.

Watch aficionados and collectors enjoyed a night in the Compass SkyView Hotel’s Mojito Lounge.

On this occasion, the Ateliers deMonaco collection has been presented in a intimate atmosphere.

The novelties have been very well received by the guests and especially the Admiral Chronographe Flyback Prato with its carbon & gold dial.

Ateliers deMonaco has integrated the Marbella’s most prestigious boutique: Gomez Y Molina. 

Ateliers deMonaco is proud to be on display at Gomez Y Molina, Marbella, Spain. The most prestigious store of the city.

Located Puerto Banus Paseo Benabola s/n 29660 Puerto Banus, feel free to visite the boutique during your summer holidays. Enjoy the late opening hours to see our new models.